TechZati

March 13, 1997

Keren, Eritrea. Very Italian style with a roundabout right in the center of town. I rather like the layout. It makes walking around very pleasant. I finally found a couple of the elusive African shirts I’ve been after. Found them in a small store off Asmara street. I’m definitely beginning to like the sweet taste of cappuccinos and espressos. Sweet shai is making more of an impression on my taste buds as well. The coffee is really tasty. Yum. I was just thinking about the instant coffee in the south of Africa and I’m so much happier about the fact that good coffee is a part of culture.

Speaking of, I was part of a “coffee ceremony” it’s really quite fascinating. Coffee beans are roasted in front of you. When dark enough they’re ground up on a mortar and pestle then placed in an elegant round bottom ceramic jug and boiled right in e coals.  I think they add a bit of salt and of course a healthy teaspoon or three of sugar. Result bondicilous coffee.

Mellow mellow is the scene here. I’m surprised as he’ll that there are no major hassles when I walk about. Of course I’m still the central attraction. The staring eyes of the curious.  Although they stare, they try to be discreet. It’s what I imagine a move star feels like when walking down the street.

I keep having these odd visions of me walking around in traditional garb. I’m quite keen on getting a farmers wrap, blanket, sheet, whatever it’s called.  Mariah Carey is pretty popular (to say the least) they okay the tapes over and over and over, can I repeat e word over one more time?

March 11, 1997

Visa’s were no problem. Egypt took one morning and Saudi Arabia took one day. Clearly it’s not as big a problem to go north as it is to come south. This stopover in Asmara turned out to be the exact therapy and R&R I needed to recuperate. I could easily. Sound a couple more days lounging around, but I must press on to Keren tomorrow. Fortunately from Asmara all the distances are short.

Thinking about how fast time slips through your fingers; I can’t believe it’s the middle of March.  I’ll be in London in what, a month? Still seems far away. But, as quickly as everything else, time will come to pass.

I think more about how I’m going to acculturate back into e Western swing than I think about being in Africa. Have I become that removed? Perhaps not, maybe it’s something to do with my habit of thinking ahead-with. No plan at all.
I think is head cold was my body and brain working together saying “you MUST chill.” in doing so, I’m forcing myself to eat. Not that it’s difficult here-pasta salad everywhere. All part of the therapy.

People in Eritrea definitely have more money than those in Ethiopia. For only being 5 years old, this country is exploding with progress. The president is a good man, which is why everything is going so well. I’ve been talking to the guard and he thinks what’s going on here is good. Speaking of the economy, prices here are more expensive than Ethiopia – a strong sign of a good growing economy.

Everyone between 18-40 years old must do 2 years of “national service” for the country.  Basically manual labor – planting eucalyptus trees and such, but after a war things must get done.
It seems my most interesting conversations occur with the most random people. Now there’s a thought for a film. Adventures in talking with people, not just staring at them.

March 9, 1997

So, I had an interesting encounter yesterday. I went to the Asmara restaurant and met an American lady who invited me to stay in a village – Serajala??? As it turned out, she was, symbolically, the second wife of an Eritrean man. They had worked together – she as a midwife and was a refugee in Sudan. I met the first wife and 5 kids this morning. Strange situation. He had 2 philosophies about people. One: When I meet you, I don’t necessarily want to know your past. It’s not important. As long as you’re a good person in my house and to me. It’s enough. #2- Don’t trust traders.

I found passage on a ship to Suez, I think. It leaves on the 18th. Hopefully I can get my visa for Saudi Arabia by the time the boat docks.

March 6, 1997

Kafaello Tange, one of the Japanese guys I met is a producer of film. He had directed a film that had won at the Chicago and Houston film festivals. (He never went to film school). We had an interesting conversation in the last couple of days about film and the reflections of life.  He likes to do experimental, underground films…clearly he’s pretty good at it. He said he lived in a mountain shanty for a long time and wore a kimono- to stay connected to his creative side, I suppose.
Anyway, one of his ideas was about the poor farmers in Ethiopia.  They work all year for the one time when the whole family goes to Addis for a family portrait. I suppose reflections on life everywhere are like that. Perhaps if I removed myself far enough I could find something in our society just as strange….actually there are plenty.
We were discussing Pulp Fiction. He loved it due to the subtleties used in dealing with issues in society. E.g. In the end when Samuel L. Jackson, after quoting the bible throughout the movie changed- representative of societal change around religion.

March 4, 1997

I left the annoying Canadian journalist behind in Axum. What a very loud woman – nice, but so loud.  Regardless, I’m in Asmara – capital of Eritrea. There have been 3 very good signs that this is going to be a great place.  First, when we got off the bus we weren’t mobbed by people and taxi drivers. Two, the taxi drivers were both helpful and nice. Third is that the people in the bank were very nice and helpful. Add to the fact that there are no beggars, this adds much to the charm of the country.

I met and independent Japanese film-maker. Sort of in the same boat as a production company I want to start. But, he made a short film, entered it into a contest and won.  Now his money comes from commercials and music videos. I’m extremely impressed by the Japanese. Incredibly polite.

We had a little trouble at the border coming out of Ethiopia.  My entry stamp had been for a month early, Jan. 22 instead of Feb. 22.  A little hassle, but no problem.  Then at the Eritrean border, the Japanese girl had trouble with her passport.  Apparently the holograms need to be over the picture of the person in the passport or it’s invalid.  The bus ride itself was painless. It was the best bus ride on a public bus I’ve ever had.  Goodbye Ethiopia.

Asmara, capital of Eritrea

March 2, 1997

The plane to Axum had been delayed by a day.  Ethiopian Airlines has moved me to the “luxurious” 7 Olives hotel. I can’t complain, it’s actually been quite a nice day.

I got into a conversation with a Canadian/Swiss journalist – one of those people from everywhere. We had an interesting conversation about what was going on in American society.  It seems that a common theme is that the U.S. is going to fall from grace as a superpower. Reasoning: brain-washed  from T.V., net takeaway, freaks that have no exposure to news or otherwise to the complexities, or rather simplicities, of the world (Occam’s Razor).  It seems she thinks that the “if it’s not American, it’s no good” attitude is going to kill us off along with lack of use of our brains.  Being in media she says that the mentality of American media is different from the rest of the world-sensationalism – well, everyone knows that.  Unfortunately, most of the people – sheep – can’t make the distinction.

Anyway, the problem is, obviously, a lack of exposure to the world. This woman thinks that Americans are a mass of undereducated people who don’t have enough sense to “invest” in the future of their children beyond national wealth.  e.g. “if I amass a large fortune and leave it to my children, they will be better off in the end” without thinking beyond the fact that materialism is NOT education.

Although she says the schism between rich and poor is growing – the Americas who do have enough money to be educated are Very well-educated indeed. So here we are.

I also had an interesting conversation with some locals yesterday about their thoughts on the States. Apparently all the young people are drug addicts. Lisa quoted the same only “missionaries” was thrown in as well. [Clearly an influence of limited media and outreach groups.]

So here’s an ITHASPIT. Perhaps the way to stun the American public is to give them the adventure they crave so much.  Travels around the world, riding in the backs of trucks, etc. As well as a satire on American society where the views of foreigners can be heard. I was thinking a documentary or book.  Need help with ideas…bounce, bounce, bounce.

Latest politics update. Apparently the Sudanese  are blaming the Ethiopian and Eritrean governments of supporting the rebels.  There’s major talk of war.  I must be picking my timing just right.

March 1, 1997

It’s the middle of the day in Lalibela – I’ve finished seeing the 11 churches that are here.  What is so incredible is that they were carved from the bedrock.  The pillars, arches, reliefs – inside and out have all been carved from one piece of stone.

Gonder – the city of castles (also known as the Camelot of Africa) was nice, but I think there are castles everywhere – smaller than I thought.  I’ve been re-energized.

I’ve been traveling with an older Swiss man. He and his wife traveled the world 30 years ago. Travelers are the same across generations – stories to tell and adventures to be discovered.  He was explaining how the world had changed since he started traveling.  Of course it has, but it’s interesting to hear how countries have changed with technology and exposure to the rest of the world.

Apparently it IS possible to go from Eritrea to Egypt.  So that’s my next – well – shall I say hurdle.  The Swedes I met who came down were also saying that Eritrea is unspoiled – people are nice – few beggars, etc.

I love injerra – it’s great stuff.  Tomorrow, Axum.