March 9, 1997
So, I had an interesting encounter yesterday. I went to the Asmara restaurant and met an American lady who invited me to stay in a village – Serajala??? As it turned out, she was, symbolically, the second wife of an Eritrean man. They had worked together – she as a midwife and was a refugee in Sudan. I met the first wife and 5 kids this morning. Strange situation. He had 2 philosophies about people. One: When I meet you, I don’t necessarily want to know your past. It’s not important. As long as you’re a good person in my house and to me. It’s enough. #2- Don’t trust traders.
I found passage on a ship to Suez, I think. It leaves on the 18th. Hopefully I can get my visa for Saudi Arabia by the time the boat docks.
March 6, 1997
Kafaello Tange, one of the Japanese guys I met is a producer of film. He had directed a film that had won at the Chicago and Houston film festivals. (He never went to film school). We had an interesting conversation in the last couple of days about film and the reflections of life. He likes to do experimental, underground films…clearly he’s pretty good at it. He said he lived in a mountain shanty for a long time and wore a kimono- to stay connected to his creative side, I suppose.
Anyway, one of his ideas was about the poor farmers in Ethiopia. They work all year for the one time when the whole family goes to Addis for a family portrait. I suppose reflections on life everywhere are like that. Perhaps if I removed myself far enough I could find something in our society just as strange….actually there are plenty.
We were discussing Pulp Fiction. He loved it due to the subtleties used in dealing with issues in society. E.g. In the end when Samuel L. Jackson, after quoting the bible throughout the movie changed- representative of societal change around religion.
March 4, 1997
I left the annoying Canadian journalist behind in Axum. What a very loud woman – nice, but so loud. Regardless, I’m in Asmara – capital of Eritrea. There have been 3 very good signs that this is going to be a great place. First, when we got off the bus we weren’t mobbed by people and taxi drivers. Two, the taxi drivers were both helpful and nice. Third is that the people in the bank were very nice and helpful. Add to the fact that there are no beggars, this adds much to the charm of the country.
I met and independent Japanese film-maker. Sort of in the same boat as a production company I want to start. But, he made a short film, entered it into a contest and won. Now his money comes from commercials and music videos. I’m extremely impressed by the Japanese. Incredibly polite.
We had a little trouble at the border coming out of Ethiopia. My entry stamp had been for a month early, Jan. 22 instead of Feb. 22. A little hassle, but no problem. Then at the Eritrean border, the Japanese girl had trouble with her passport. Apparently the holograms need to be over the picture of the person in the passport or it’s invalid. The bus ride itself was painless. It was the best bus ride on a public bus I’ve ever had. Goodbye Ethiopia.

Asmara, capital of Eritrea