January 4th, 1997
Yesterday, we decided to come to Zambia. It’s actually the 4th of January now. Getting organized in the morning, I got a Wimpy’s brekkie and loaded up for Zambia. Crossing the border, we hit a bummer deal. Terrance couldn’t get the car through. Apparently he didn’t have the right papers. So, I came on alone. I was about ready for the split anyway. So today, I saw Vic Falls in total. Swam around in the pools above the Falls, DREAMY. I bought a bunch of art work, haggling my ass off. It was great fun. Such a sense of accomplishment when you get a price down from $Z150 to $Z70 for two.
I’m going to try and meet Lisa and Terrance in Kariba, I decided. I’m not hearing rave things about Zambia. Thus comes the end of volume I of my world travels.
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A look back to Zimbabwe
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January 3, 1997
The BIG DAY! Running the Zambezi. Meeting at the Ilala Hotel, we got organized. It was the exact feeling you get when everything is as you hoped it would be. Going through the pleasantries we loaded up and headed down the gorge.
Zambezi River, Ilala Lodge. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Getting on the bus to the Zambezi River put-in
Hiking down was BEAUTIFUL! It was brutal straight down. When we got to the put-in there was no beach or ramp, but everything was done on the basalt rock. I paddled with a bunch of never ever English blokes and shaking my head at all the “typical questions.” There is definitely a Zamb river attitude from the guides. I got questions like “So, how does the Colorado River compare…” being the most common. I must say I had an incredible time. Flipping in rapid 8 was big. I feel much more comfortable with that aspect of guiding. I caught such a buzz from that trip.
Victoria Falls and the mighty Zambezi
January 2, 1997
Terrance, Lisa and I have now spent about three days in Victoria Falls. We finally got up here after waiting for Terrance to show up, a flat tire and driving around half the night looking for a place to sleep. Getting into Victoria Falls and deciding that the campsite wasn’t where we wanted to spend New Year’s (1996-1997). We stopped at every hotel and asked if they had rooms. Sending us on a long chase we ended up at the Zambia border. Driving around at night – we did see an elephant and a hippo, stuck in a tiny little car, not the safest feeling. Finally getting back into town we conveniently drove over an island and almost took out five people. Dragging ourselves to the campsite, we set up and had a mellow New Year’s Eve.
Victoria Falls Campground - Warthogs!
The next day we went to the mighty Zambezi! We spent the day lazing around and swimming in the water. It was quite a pilgrimage for me. Here I was in the Zambezi River, the main reason I came to Africa – three months later – here I am. Later in the day after I decided to do the rafting, I went around and talked to some of the companies. The first one I stopped, Frontier Adventures, turned out to be the golden egg. After bullshitting with the guy in the front for a few minutes (Regular River Rat chat), he offered me the “mates rate” $Z100. Incredible deal. I tried to get something for Lisa and Terrance, but he wouldn’t go for it. Going to the hotel afterwards we sorted out our food and accommodation for the night. Chalets next to the river for Z$375. At the hotel I sorted out postcards for everyone back home.
Swimming in the Zambezi - Crocodile!
